Who and What is Chinese?

A shrine to the Qing Dynasty scholar-bureaucrat Li Hongzhang is said to be located at No. 27 Xizongbu Hutong in Beijing. Li Hongzhang (1823-1901) was known for instigating modernization reforms during that time and was a central figure in the Self-Strengthening Movement, which began after the Opium Wars. Once I went on a futile search for the shrine with a friend. We turned up in the alley and walked by a primary school, fruit shops and an office for a delivery company. Despite my earnest hopes, I had already heard of a historian acquaintance that took up the same endeavor. He had even inquired on the exact address with a local official, eventually giving up. An old man running the grocery pointed me to a warren in the alley and said one red wall remained. He said that the Li Hongzhang shrine was leveled in 1991.

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