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Sep 06, 2024 05:57 PM

Night Visit to Mandela's Hometown | People (AI Translation)

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夜色下,就着车灯,我在曼德拉的头像下留影。
夜色下,就着车灯,我在曼德拉的头像下留影。

文、图|舒立

Text and images by | Hu Shuli

One

  夜色如磐。

The night was as dark and solid as a rock.

  晚十点许,我们的奔驰吉普驶在南非东开普省通往德班的2号国道上。若在白日,这里或是一片深绿,有绿野,有峡谷,有远山连绵,给旅程增添各种悬念。可在眼前,沿途全然是一片墨黑,看不到一处房舍、一星灯光。除了车灯,惟有偶或迎面而来的会车灯穿破黑暗,带来更多的紧张。

Around 10 PM, our Mercedes Jeep was driving on Route 2 in Eastern Cape Province, South Africa, heading towards Durban. By day, this journey might be enveloped in lush greenery with fields, gorges, and rolling hills, adding a sense of suspense to the trip. But now, all we saw was pitch blackness, without a single house or light in sight. Apart from our headlights, the only other lights piercing the darkness were the occasional oncoming car headlights, heightening the tension.

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Caixin is acclaimed for its high-quality, investigative journalism. This section offers you a glimpse into Caixin’s flagship Chinese-language magazine, Caixin Weekly, via AI translation. The English translation may contain inaccuracies.
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Night Visit to Mandela's Hometown | People (AI Translation)
Explore the story in 30 seconds
  • A journey from Port Elizabeth to Durban in South Africa highlighted the dangerous, bleak conditions of nighttime travel on unlit highways, emphasizing the high crime rate.
  • The trip included a visit to Nelson Mandela's hometown, Qunu, showcasing Mandela's early life and the area's severe poverty.
  • Historical context was provided on South Africa's racial inequalities, apartheid-era bantustans, and notable figures like Mandela and Kaiser Matanzima.
AI generated, for reference only
Explore the story in 3 minutes

[para. 1] The journey begins at 10 PM, with the author and Bruce traveling in a Mercedes Jeep on Route 2 in Eastern Cape Province, South Africa, towards Durban. The night is pitch dark with no signs of life except the jeep's headlights and occasional oncoming cars. The trip is tense due to the possibility of hijacking, a common occurrence in South Africa. They plan to stop at a gas station for a break, but none are found along the desolate highway. The journey lasts for five hours, and they reach Durban at 1 AM. The day started at 1 PM from Port Elizabeth, covering over 900 kilometers across the Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal Provinces [para. 1].

[para. 2] Bruce, a Portuguese native born and raised in South Africa, accompanied Mr. L and the author. The initial days were spent in a leisurely manner, visiting coastal towns and watching natural spectacles like whale breaching and sunsets. The journey offered stunning views, resembling Europe, predominantly inhabited by white people. However, leaving Port Elizabeth marked a shift to stark poverty. The once lush and vibrant landscapes transformed into desolate stretches with idle Black inhabitants displaying expressions of bewilderment [para. 2].

[para. 3] The Mandela Museum was a planned stop in Qunu Village despite its closure at 4 PM. Arriving past 7 PM, they found the gate shut. After Bruce negotiated an "entrance fee" with the guard, they entered and toured the museum. The museum displayed numerous photographs detailing Nelson Mandela's life, from his childhood in Qunu to his education and imprisonment. Mandela’s tough decisions and leadership were highlighted throughout. The visit concluded with an overview of Mandela’s final resting place, located in Qunu village [para. 3].

[para. 4] Qunu village and nearby Mthatha hold significant history. Mthatha, with a population of 210,000, was a transport hub and significant during apartheid as part of the "homeland" system. This system segregated Black South Africans into designated areas called Bantustans or "homelands", supposedly self-governed but ultimately impoverished and underdeveloped. Transkei, of which Qunu was a part, was the first Bantustan to declare "independence" though not recognized internationally. The trip highlighted the grim reality of high crime and economic hardship in the region [para. 4].

[para. 5] Mthatha, also known as Umtata, is a town with historical significance in the Black struggle against apartheid. It became the capital of the "Republic of Transkei." Despite being the birthplace of revolutionaries like Nelson Mandela, it also witnessed figures like Kaiser Matanzima, who cooperated with the apartheid regime in establishing homelands. Matanzima's political stance starkly contrasted with Mandela’s, leading to different paths in the Black liberation movement [para. 5].

[para. 6] Bruce shared his personal experiences, including a near-death encounter with robbers in Johannesburg, which led him to emigrate to Portugal. Despite his harrowing experiences, he holds great respect for Mandela’s efforts for a peaceful transition in South Africa. Bruce attributed current high crime rates more to high unemployment than racial conflict. As they neared Durban, the conversation deepened their appreciation for Mandela's legacy and the ongoing struggles within South Africa [para. 6].

The journey through Eastern Cape to Durban encapsulates a microcosm of South Africa's broader social issues, blending historical references, personal anecdotes, and a stark portrayal of contemporary realities. It highlights the deep social divisions, economic disparities, and the indomitable spirit inspired by figures like Nelson Mandela.

AI generated, for reference only
What Happened When
July 18, 1918:
Nelson Mandela was born.
When Mandela was 9 years old:
His father passed away, and the regent of the Thembu tribe, Jongintaba, became his guardian.
1990:
Mandela was released and returned to Qunu to visit his mother's grave.
1992:
Mandela held a press conference to announce his divorce from Winnie.
April 2017 - March 2018:
There were 222 cases of rape and 160 cases of murder in the region including Umtata.
July 2018:
The trip to Mandela's hometown took place.
10 PM:
The Mercedes Jeep was driving on Route 2 in Eastern Cape Province, South Africa, heading towards Durban.
1 AM:
Bruce and the group finally arrived at the coastal city of Durban in South Africa.
1 PM:
The group departed from Port Elizabeth.
after 4 PM:
The Mandela Museum in Qunu Village was already closed.
past 7 PM:
The group arrived at Kunu Village.
December 5, 2013:
Mandela passed away.
Ten days after Mandela's death:
A grand state funeral was held for Mandela in Qunu, attended by 4,000 people.
AI generated, for reference only
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