In Depth: Luxury Brands Cut Price of Exclusivity as Chinese Spending Drops
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On a recent spring afternoon, models paraded Louis Vuitton’s latest collection inside the French brand’s Beijing flagship store, to the clink of champagne flutes and polite applause from a select batch of clients.
These private fashion shows — known as VIC, or “very important client,” events — were once reserved for only the biggest spenders. Today, they’re being deployed by luxury brands more often, and the bar to entry is lower.

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- China’s luxury market shrank by up to 20% in 2024 due to cautious consumer behavior influenced by economic uncertainties, with luxury product sales like watches and jewelry dropping significantly.
- Luxury brands are adapting by targeting emerging markets in smaller cities, expanding hybrid retail experiences, and focusing on digital and personalized engagement to maintain relevance.
- Despite challenges, brands such as Hermès and Chanel show resilience, and major players like LVMH and Kering reaffirm their commitment to the Chinese market through innovative strategies and investments.
The Chinese luxury market is undergoing notable transformations amidst economic challenges and shifting consumer behavior. Louis Vuitton recently hosted a private fashion show in Beijing as part of their "Very Important Client" (VIC) events, which are now becoming more inclusive, targeting customers who spend less than the traditional threshold of 500,000 yuan annually [para. 1][para. 2][para. 3]. However, these events also reflect the luxury market's cooling demand as consumers, even in China’s urban centers, are becoming more cautious in their spending [para. 4][para. 5].
In 2024, the Chinese mainland luxury market contracted by up to 20% due to factors such as increased overseas spending by Chinese consumers and conservative wealth management by high-net-worth individuals. Total global luxury spending by Chinese buyers remains 7% lower than the previous year and is 16% below pre-pandemic levels [para. 6][para. 7]. This conservatism is rooted in job insecurity and asset value losses, as middle-class Chinese families choose to save more money, depositing a record 17.99 trillion yuan in 2024 [para. 8][para. 9].
Luxury sub-categories like watches, jewelry, and leather goods are significantly impacted by declining consumer confidence. Watch sales have dropped by up to 33%, while jewelry demand has dipped by 30%. Major luxury brands, including Cartier's parent company Richemont, LVMH, Gucci, and Yves Saint Laurent, have reported double-digit sales declines in China. On the contrary, Hermès and Chanel have shown resilience, bolstered by their exclusivity and high appeal among affluent customers [para. 10][para. 11][para. 12][para. 13].
Despite the downturn, luxury brands remain committed to expanding within China. Brands like Burberry and Dolce & Gabbana are investing in local operations, while others like Coach are entering smaller, emerging cities like Daqing and Baoji to tap into untapped purchasing power. These markets are showing promise as lower-tier cities benefit from population migration and higher disposable income [para. 14][para. 15][para. 16].
To adapt, brands are incorporating innovative strategies such as hybrid experiences combining fashion and lifestyle, exemplified by Coach's coffee shops and apartments and Prada's new restaurant in Shanghai. Personalized services and luxury experiences, such as private shopping or events at unique venues, are also being emphasized to meet the preferences of high-net-worth clients [para. 17][para. 18][para. 19].
Digital engagement remains a challenge for luxury brands aiming to connect with affluent consumers online. Platforms like WeChat Mini Programs have demonstrated inconsistent user activity, highlighting the difficulty of maintaining ongoing digital connections with high-net-worth customers. While brands recognize the importance of online channels, many, such as Hermès, still prioritize offline shopping experiences to build lasting customer relationships [para. 20][para. 21][para. 22].
Overall, the Chinese luxury market is at a crossroads, driven by changes in consumer spending behaviors, economic uncertainties, and evolving strategies aimed at long-term growth. While challenges persist, experts suggest that the current decline should be viewed in the context of a high sales base in 2023, offering hope for a clearer trajectory in the coming years [para. 23][para. 24].
- Louis Vuitton
- Louis Vuitton hosted private fashion shows, known as "very important client" (VIC) events, in its Beijing flagship store to boost engagement amid waning demand in China's luxury market. These events, previously exclusive to top spenders, now require lower spending thresholds. The brand is part of an industry-wide effort to attract consumers with personalization and enhanced experiences as China’s luxury market cools, despite maintaining a commitment to the market and exploring newer strategies in smaller cities and digital platforms.
- Bain & Co.
- Bain & Co., a consulting firm, projected that China's luxury market shrank by up to 20% in 2024, marking the end of a brief post-pandemic recovery. Bain analysts noted that VICs showed resilience but became more conservative in spending, diversifying wealth amidst economic uncertainties. They also highlighted shifting luxury demand to lower-tier cities and emphasized the importance of innovative brand strategies.
- AlixPartners
- AlixPartners is a consultancy firm whose partner and managing director, Lisa Hu, highlighted the growing risk-aversion among Chinese middle-class families due to job insecurity and asset value losses. This shift impacts financial perceptions, leading consumers to save more and cut back on luxury spending. An AlixPartners survey in January revealed that middle-income earners in second-tier cities, Gen Z buyers in major metros, and high earners in towns are all scaling back their luxury purchases.
- Compagnie Financière Richemont S.A.
- Compagnie Financière Richemont S.A., owner of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, reported an 18% year-on-year sales drop in Greater China during Q4 2024, reflecting the luxury market slowdown.
- Cartier
- Cartier, owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont, experienced an 18% year-on-year sales drop in Greater China in Q4 2024, reflecting the overall luxury market slowdown in the region.
- Van Cleef & Arpels
- Van Cleef & Arpels, owned by Swiss luxury group Compagnie Financière Richemont S.A., faced an 18% year-on-year sales decline in Greater China during the fourth quarter of 2024, reflecting the broader downturn in China's luxury market. Demand for jewelry, including items like those from Van Cleef & Arpels, has dropped significantly as Chinese high-spending clients become more conservative and hesitant about luxury purchases, citing concerns about resale value and economic uncertainty.
- LVMH
- LVMH's watch and jewelry division experienced a 2% global sales drop in 2024, with sales in Asia (excluding Japan) down 17%. Despite these challenges, the group reaffirmed its commitment to the Chinese market during the China International Import Expo, focusing on long-term growth and tailored offerings for local consumers.
- Gucci
- Gucci’s sales in the Asia-Pacific region dropped 32% in 2024, reflecting a downturn in China’s luxury market. Global luxury spending by Chinese consumers has declined, and brands like Gucci are facing reduced demand. Gucci’s WeChat Mini Program saw fluctuating user engagement, with monthly active users ranging from 200,000 to 1.2 million.
- Yves Saint Laurent
- Yves Saint Laurent experienced a significant sales decline in the Asia-Pacific region, with a 21% drop in 2024, according to its parent company Kering SA. This reflects the broader luxury market's struggles in China as middle-class buyers reduce spending. Despite these challenges, the brand remains committed to the market, alongside other luxury companies, seeking strategies like enhancing customer engagement and exploring opportunities in smaller cities to drive growth.
- Kering SA
- Kering SA, the owner of Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, experienced a decline in the luxury market in 2024. Gucci's sales in the Asia-Pacific region dropped by 32%, while Yves Saint Laurent saw a 21% decline.
- Hermès
- Hermès has shown resilience amidst China's luxury market downturn, with 14.7% global sales growth in 2024. Its Asia-Pacific growth slowed to 7% from 19% the previous year. The brand benefits from strong discipline and exclusivity, making it less reliant on middle-class spending. Hermès believes in prioritizing in-store experiences over online sales and is focused on maintaining long-term strategies rather than short-term gains, highlighting the enduring appeal of its brand among affluent consumers.
- Chanel
- Chanel demonstrated resilience amid China's luxury market downturn, with better performance compared to rivals. The brand's focus on exclusivity and strong brand discipline allows it to attract VICs and minimize dependency on middle-class spending.
- Digital Luxury Group
- Digital Luxury Group is a marketing firm focusing on luxury brands. Pablo Mauron, its managing partner for the China region, highlighted that brands like Hermès and Chanel, which emphasize exclusivity and strong brand discipline, are less impacted by middle-class spending shifts. The firm observes that consumers still aim to purchase top-tier luxury items when they buy.
- RF Thunder China
- RF Thunder China is a communications firm mentioned in the article. Gao Ming, a senior vice president at the firm, noted that even when middle-class buyers scale back their luxury purchases, they still prefer to buy "the best" when they do choose to shop.
- Tapestry Inc.
- Tapestry Inc., parent company of Coach, reaffirmed its commitment to China's market and is expanding its operations. Coach has opened locations in smaller cities such as Daqing and Baoji to be closer to customers, reflecting shifting demand toward lower-tier markets. The brand also introduced innovative hybrid retail experiences, like the Coach Coffee Shop in Shanghai and Coach Apartment in Nanjing, merging fashion, food, and furniture to engage consumers.
- Burberry
- Burberry remains committed to the Chinese market despite the downturn in luxury demand. Josie Zhang, President of Burberry China, stated that the company will continue to invest locally, introducing products and services tailored to Chinese consumers' needs.
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Dolce & Gabbana's global CEO, Alfonso Dolce, stated the brand is committed to the Chinese market despite the downturn, aiming to expand operations and deepen customer engagement.
- Coach
- Coach has been expanding into smaller cities in China, with locations in fourth-tier cities like Daqing and Baoji, aiming to be closer to customers. It focuses on hybrid retail experiences, such as opening its first Coach Coffee Shop in Shanghai and a Coach Apartment in Nanjing, blending fashion, food, and furniture. The brand targets emerging lower-tier markets, where lower living costs boost purchasing power, and emphasizes accessibility over exclusivity as part of its strategy in China.
- Kearney
- Kearney is a consulting firm mentioned in the article for its insights on China's luxury market. Partner Ma Jintao highlighted how demand for luxury goods is shifting from first-tier cities to smaller, second- and third-tier cities, where lower living costs boost residents' purchasing power. This migration is driving growth in these areas, presenting new opportunities for luxury brands to capture first-mover advantages in emerging markets.
- Prada
- Prada has adapted to shifting luxury demands by innovating its retail experiences. In Shanghai, it opened its first stand-alone restaurant in Asia at the historic Rong Zhai mansion, blending luxury and dining. This aligns with the evolving preferences of high-net-worth clients seeking unique, experiential shopping environments.
- Yaok Institute
- Yaok Institute conducts research and provides consulting services for luxury brands. Its CEO, Tina Zhou, emphasizes the importance of overhauling luxury brands' retail systems to focus on personalization, catering to high-net-worth clients. This includes adapting to their preferences, such as privacy, convenience, or unique experiences, and enhancing retail staff skills in interpersonal interaction, product knowledge, and customer acquisition.
- QuestMobile
- QuestMobile is referenced in the article as a data platform providing insights into digital engagement. The article mentions its data showing fluctuating monthly active users for luxury brands' WeChat Mini Programs in 2024, such as Hermès (120,000 to 9.24 million) and Gucci (200,000 to 1.2 million). This highlights challenges luxury brands face in maintaining sustainable digital engagement in China.
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