Reporter’s Notebook: Fire, Floods and Chaos at COP30

[para. 1] On Thursday afternoon, a fire broke out at the venue for the 30th U.N. Climate Change Conference (COP30) in Belém, Brazil, which had already been experiencing issues due to torrential rain that caused leaks the previous day. [para. 2][para. 3] At around 2 p.m., a fire alarm sounded in the media center. Although not very loud, it prompted journalists and attendees to evacuate quickly, and black smoke could be seen rising from the origin of the fire. The incident caused confusion, forcing people to rush out and created chaos as personal belongings were left behind. [para. 4][para. 5] The fire started in one of the national pavilions, particularly near the Brazil pavilion, with videos showing flames burning through the temporary tent’s roof. Staff tried to contain the blaze with fire extinguishers while thousands of attendees from nearly 200 countries gathered outside, waiting anxiously for news and access to their items.

[para. 6][para. 7] Evacuees were left stranded along the roadside under intermittent rain, with many attempting to continue working despite the disruption. Security prevented anyone from returning inside, causing widespread distress as some people lost essential items like phones and passports, especially before scheduled flights. [para. 8] After about seven hours, at 8:40 p.m., attendees were allowed back in, but the cause of the fire remained unconfirmed, though speculation pointed toward electrical equipment. Organizers stated that thirteen individuals were treated for smoke inhalation.

[para. 9] The fire has halted all on-site work and is expected to delay the final agreement of the conference, which was originally set to conclude on Friday. [para. 10][para. 11] The incident came after days of persistent infrastructure issues, notably flooding from daily heavy rain and leaks throughout the venue, a temporary tent structure prone to both heat and water damage. Many attendees observed that the conference atmosphere was “crazy” due to these compounding logistical challenges.

[para. 12][para. 13][para. 14][para. 15] Complaints among participants ranged from high costs and poor transportation to inadequate air conditioning and food. With regular power outages, organizing the conference in Belém’s park—where all facilities, including internet, cooling systems, and even water heating, are temporary—proved especially challenging. Organizers advised casual dress due to the heat, but many delegates still wore formal attire, struggling with the heat and humidity. Power outages disrupted work, and most attendees had to contend with cold showers due to a lack of hot water in local accommodations.

[para. 16][para. 17] Locals and foreign delegates questioned why such a major event was held in less-developed Belém rather than more accessible cities like São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro. Brazilian President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva stated his aim was to immerse global participants in the Amazon’s climate reality and emphasize the significance of preserving the rainforest. [para. 18] However, political considerations played a role: while staging the event in southern Brazil could have boosted the economy, the population in those regions is less supportive of Lula, whereas Belém is his political stronghold.

[para. 19][para. 20] The COP30 conference also faced constant indigenous protests, including blockades that led to extensive delays, with organizers touting the highest-ever participation of indigenous representatives (about 3,000). Despite this, many indigenous protesters felt underrepresented in actual decision-making. [para. 21][para. 22] Local residents, while generally welcoming the influx of visitors and economic activity, also experienced price hikes. One Uber driver shared his personal story and gratitude with the author, expressing happiness about the global attention the city received and a hope for better cultural understanding.

In summary, COP30 in Belém has been beset by logistical problems, infrastructural failures, and protests, culminating in a major fire that disrupted proceedings and delayed outcomes. Despite organizers' intentions to highlight the Amazon’s significance, many question the decision to host such a global event in a remote, under-resourced city, though local residents have mostly responded positively to the international attention.