In Depth: Louboutin’s Famous Red Sole Heels Tread Winding Path to Trademark Protection in China

Around 31 years ago, renowned French footwear designer Christian Louboutin drew inspiration from his assistant’s red nail polish to create the iconic red soled high heels that would captivate the fashion world. The unique shoes evolved into the hallmark of his eponymous brand.

In 2012, the shoes made their debut in the Chinese market, two years after an application to have their distinctive appearance protected under the Trademark Law sparked a legal tussle that would unfold over the ensuing decade and continues today. It serves as an example of the complexities in negotiating the system designed to protect intellectual property (IP) in China and what symbols qualify for protection.